General Information
Why Install Wood Floors?
Real wood floors are made from domestic species such as Oak, Pine, Hickory, Birch, Maple, Walnut, Cherry, and Pecan. Now they are also made from exotic species such as Amendoim, Brazilian Cherry, Tigerwood, Rosewood, Ipe, and Cumaru. Their rich colors and handcrafted quality are what we have come to expect in American homes. Over the last few years wood flooring technology has improved to an extent that we have never seen before.
Reasons Why You Should Choose Real Wood:
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Natural, warm, authentic color.
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Simple, yet decorative for any room in the house.
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Rugged, yet charming.
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Durable, yet easy to care for.
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Beauty that is hard to tire of.
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Lifetime guarantee.
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Adds real value to a home.
Wood vs. Carpet
Carpeting is more economical, you think. Actually, carpeting lasts between seven and ten years under normal residential use. Hardwood floors can last a lifetime and are always in style.
Here’s a 30-year comparison test you can use when trying to decide between carpeting or wood flooring. Say you installed a hardwood floor. It would typically last for 30 years. During that same period you probably would have to install new carpeting four or five times. At that rate, the hardwood flooring actually costs less than the cumulative cost of all the carpeting you would have to install.
Another thing to consider is the cleanliness of your home. A large American company that recycles old carpeting has stated that most used carpeting it receives for processing contains at least 35% of its weight in household dirt. The families who owned this old carpeting were actually walking or crawling on dirt. Hardwood flooring is simply cleaner. If it is dirty, the dirt is plainly visible to the eye, not hidden within carpet fibers. Hardwood flooring is recommended for those people suffering from allergies. Unlike carpeting, hardwood doesn’t offer allergens and dust mites a place to hide. Hardwood flooring may be your best buy and most solid investment.
Engineered Wood vs. Solid Wood
It’s a well-known fact within the flooring industry that engineered wood flooring is more stable than solid wood flooring in environments where moisture is a concern. Wood and water, however, do not mix. Damp conditions undermine all types of floor coverings. Oak lumber floors, for instance, can have many problems in the presence of moisture, including gaps between planks, squeaking, cupping, buckling, and cracking.
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General Helpful Tips for Installation Day
The following information is a checklist of items to prepare your home for your new flooring. Proper preparation helps the installation go smoothly and efficiently. This information sheet is to prevent surprises that cause unhappy customers.
Preparation For Installation:
Before installation, empty all closets receiving the new floor covering; remove all items from underneath beds, remove bed coverings, fragile lamps, knickknacks, glassware from china cabinets, books from bookcases, any small furniture you can move and pictures on the walls. Disconnect all computers, stereos, TVs VCR equipment, or any other electrical equipment. Inform the measurer of all wires located under the carpet, such as alarm wires or system. Check for cable connections under existing floor covering (cable company may have to remove or disconnect). Before the installers arrive, complete other remodeling projects intended in the room, such as painting and wallpapering. Vacuum the old carpet to avoid the possibility of airborne dust and dirt, if you’re installing a sand-and-finish floor. After the carpet and pad are removed, vacuum the sub-floor.
Crew Arrival:
The installation contractor will obviously need safe and ready access to the areas to be worked in. Safe meaning: no dogs, cats or other pets and no small children under foot. Windows should be uncovered for sufficient light. Generally things that may interfere with the work should be dealt with or discussed with the crew before arrival.
During Installation:
Upon delivery, inspect the new flooring for proper color and to ensure that it is free of visible defects before it is installed. It is the customers responsibility during installation to provide an adequate supply of fresh air, as with other renovation projects. Open windows and doors, use an exhaust fan, or operate the fan of your heating system or air conditioning system.
Excessive Furniture:
Additional charges will apply to areas with excessive furniture (i.e., file cabinets, heavy equipment, storage boxes, wall units, sleeper sofas, four-poster beds, armories, etc.) Most contractors do not move antiques, grandfather clocks, gas stoves, and refrigerators with front door dispensers, aquariums, waterbeds, heavy pool tables, pianos, safes, computers, or electronic equipment of any kind. (Many of these items need to be professionally moved.).
Doors:
If you have purchased a ¾” thick wood flooring product or if a new sub-floor is placed on top of an existing sub-floor, you may need to have your doors trimmed to accommodate the new flooring height/floor level. Princeton Flooring installers are all experienced, qualified, finish-carpentry, construction contractors and have the tools and expertise that it takes to complete this job. When Wayne Lougee, owner of Princeton Flooring, comes out to look at your potential project he will discuss this detail with the owner at that time.
Secured Premises:
(Condominiums). Please check with your building management for parking accessibility and delivery times for your installation (such as, elevators, service entrances, front desk procedures, etc.)
Contractors require ready access- meaning someone at the work site when the crew gets there, (or a key provided a day ahead of time); Time is money! no obstructions in the way of getting tools into the work area; security badges if applicable; access to where the old flooring, carpet, or pad is to be placed for removal, (or reuse). [NOTE - If you wish to reuse any carpet that is to be pulled up, please make sure the contractor knows this before arrival, or they may well cut up the old carpet into manageable strips customary for disposal]
Un-forseen charges:
Additional charges may apply to installations when the take-up and removal of carpet or flooring are done. Water damage, urine soaked carpets, floors with structural damage, asbestos floors, etc., are not always detectable until the installation process has begun. If possible, please advise the contractor, in advance of any known conditions.
Proper Power:
Make sure that adequate power, light, ventilation and heat will be available 24 hours before, and during, the installation. (This could be a concern on new home construction or an unoccupied structure).
Removal of existing floor covering:
If you have elected to not have the contractor remove your existing carpet or flooring, you must have this done before they arrive on your installation date. Expect minor touch up painting to be needed after Installation. Normal installation methods may slightly scuff existing baseboards or walls. Contractors will use extreme care to minimize this.
Cleanup:
All quality contactors will make a post-Installation inspection with you to guarantee your complete satisfaction. After the installation they will pick up all scrap materials. Surplus materials should be placed on your premises, where you request.
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NWFA Maintenance Questions
How are polyurethane or other surface finishes maintained?
Surface finishes like polyurethane require only simple care. Just dustmop, sweep, or vacuum regularly. Always follow the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations if known. When cleaning no longer restores shine, recoat the floor with a surface finish. The frequency of recoating depends on the amount of traffic. Never wax a surface-finished floor. And never use vinyl or tile floor care products on any wood floor.
How are wax or penetrating-stain finishes maintained?
Dust mop or vacuum regularly, and use a buffer to maintain the shine. Always follow the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations if known. If buffing no longer restores shine, you may need to rewax. If so, apply a cleaner and liquid wax specifically for wood floors. Apply the wax evenly, allow the floor to dry, and buff to the desired luster. Depending on traffic, a properly maintained wood floor should need waxing once or twice a year. Be careful not to over-wax a wood floor. If the floor dulls, try buffing instead. Avoid wax buildup under furniture and other low-traffic areas by applying wax half as often as in higher-traffic areas.
How can I clean a discolored or soiled wax finish?
If the wax finish is discolored or has dirt buildup, use a combination liquid cleaner/wax made specifically for wood flooring. Make sure it is solvent rather than water-based. Spread the liquid cleaner/wax with a cloth or fine steel wool and rub gently to remove grime and old wax. Wipe the floor clean, let it dry for about 20 minutes, and then buff.
Can cleaning products for vinyl or tile floors be used on wood floors as well?
No. Never use sheet vinyl or tile floor care products on wood floors. And never use self-polishing acrylic waxes on wood floors. These waxes cause wood to become slippery and dull. In this case, the floor must be sanded and refinished.
Can a wood floor be damp-mopped?
Never damp mop a waxed floor. When cleaning a surface-finished floor, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. You may generally use a dampened (near dry) mop to maintain a wood floor, however excessive moisture will cause damage. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring residue. If water spills on a wood floor, immediately wipe it up with a clean cloth.
How can I prevent scratches on wood flooring?
Place mats and throw rugs at doorways to help protect wood floors from grit, dirt and sand. Place felt pads under furniture legs and vacuum/dust your wood floor regularly.
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